Çay and Cigarettes

At least three times a day, I am stopped or waved down by men sitting around at the Çay Evi (tea house). These exclusively male hangouts are located in every village, town, and city in Turkey. They mainly accommodate middle to third aged men playing backgammon and/or fumbling with their Tasbih, both very macho things to do...in Turkey.

I always stop to meet new friends and, without fail, a tulip shaped glass of black tea is offered to me with an excessive amount of sugar beside it.

Next comes the cigarette. I politely decline.

Speaking of smoke, this internet cafe might be the smokiest internet cafe in the world.

I must leave now.

Konya: The Citadel of Islam

This city is so so so interesting. Lets start with a ratio of inhabitants to discos/bars.

Over two million people: ZERO

Nightlife is nonexistent and it was very apparent as I sauntered through the dark and empty streets with a slight feeling of uneasiness.

My accommodations: The Aziziye Otel, no thanks to the Konya Couchsurfers, ıs located on a particularly dark street corner. The hallways were straight out of a David Lynch flick, and the people staying there were beyond Queer.

There was Mustafa who followed me everywhere, including the restroom.

And there was the Iranian man who I chatted with in the lobby for twenty minutes.

Then he hugged me.

He_______did_______not________ let________ go.

During the daytime, the city had a totally different feel. The obscure streets from the night before became bustling markets. Everyone I met was super friendly and the bike racks were at overcapacity.

Did I mention the Mevlevi Order (Whirling Dervishes)?

Not Just Riding My Bike

Drizzle, rain, and occasional hail plagued me for a full day of riding through some brutally steep mountains. And in the evening, as I was huddled into my tent, I noticed a drop in temp and the transition to snow.

The next morning, my bottles were frozen and the snow continued to fall. After a few hours of being wet, freezing, and numb, I arrived in Kütahya and found the otogar (bus station) and took the next bus south to some better weather.

I chose the most religiously conservative city in Turkey, Konya.